In the Company of Dog

I was at the dog park today when the discussion of puppy mills came up. Apparently there was an article is some magazine recently about it. What fascinated me was that everyone in the conversation (about 8 people) excluding myself, admitted they had purchased one of their dogs from a pet store. Almost all of them had no idea that puppies in stores come from puppy mills. The few that did felt that they had “saved” the puppies they had purchased from the pet store. All of this struck me.
The group discussed the cruel conditions and poor health of the animals, but when I brought up over breeding they had no idea how often a dog should even be bred. They talked about the huge mills in Missouri, and “in the south”, but none could actually tell me how many dogs is too many. One argued that their dog came with “papers” and therefore was not a mill dog. The misinformation was truly shocking. People seem to be sickened by puppy mills but have no idea what is really going on. This discussion and the ignorance lacing it inspired me to explain what is really going on and explain the best ways to properly procure a puppy.

#1. Puppy Mills - Why they are bad
I know this point seems self explanatory but the truth needs to be understood so misinformation stops flowing.
Puppy mills are large breeding operations in various states throughout the US. They can be found in Pennsylvania, Missouri, Ohio, Iowa, Massachusetts, Kentucky, Tennessee, Florida, Arkansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Louisiana, etc. There are believed to be as many as 4,000 puppy mills in the United States. These operations usually breed upwards of 6-10 breeds of dog in site. They usually breed dogs every time they come into heat and keep the mother and puppies in cramped, dirty conditions until the puppies are shipped to stores. Some puppy mills also sell their dogs online. Puppy mills never consider the genetic health of the dogs then choosing which dogs to breed. Puppies are taken away from their their mothers as young as 6 weeks and shipped to pet stores where they never learn proper behavior and social cues from little mates and parents. Many develop serious temperament and health issues once they leave the mill. Dogs from puppy mills can come with papers from also any kennel club. These papers guarantee nothing about the health, temperament or conditions the dog was bred under. Puppies with papers from APRI- America’s Pet Registry, CKC-Continental Kennel Club, ACR-American Canine Registry are probably from a puppy mill and should be avoided.

#2. Backyard Breeders
Backyard breeders are a little harder to spot but in many ways, are no different from puppy mills. The only real difference is the size of the operation. Backyard breeders may breed anywhere from one breed to three or four. Like puppy mills, the mothers are heavily bred. Puppies are many times removed from the mother early just like at the large mills. Backyard breeders rarely test from genetic defects, but a few do. Some backyard breeders will allow you to come and see their facility. It may be a large kennel or just a room in there home. Some are very clean and the people seem very nice. This does not mean they are still not ethical breeders. A huge red flag is that the breeder always has puppies available. Be careful not to be tricked into buying a puppy from a backyard breeder.

Proper Puppy Procurement
Now that puppy mills and backyard breeders are properly explained I can focus on how to properly find a puppy.
First research the breed of dog you are interested in adding to your family. Even “designer” breeds have information and books out their explaining the characteristics of the breed. If you are looking for a mixed breed that is not specifically defined, research the breeds that make up the mix. Be prepared for all the quirks of the breed you like. All of them!
Next contact the breed club of your chosen breed. If you are looking for a mix, a breed club of one of the breeds will probably be able to point you in the direction of a breed rescue that has mixes. Breed clubs usually have a wealth of information about the breed and usually has a list of ethical breeders you can contact. Contact the breeders and see if they fit the following criteria:
*NEVER pick out a breeder based on how nice a website they have. Anyone can create a nice website and some breeders don’t have nice websites because they have a bigger priority - their dogs!

Criteria for screening a breeder:
Does the breeder always have puppies available? (Huge red flag! Breeders should be breeding for a reason other then to sell puppies.)
Proper testing - Do the parents have OFA (eye) and CERF (hips and knees) tests? (These tests are very important in determining genetic defects.)
Can you meet one or more of the parents? (You want to be able to see the temperament of that parents as well as size and overall health.)
Does the breeder belong to any clubs or organisations related to the breed? (Breeds who belong to breed clubs, kennel clubs, obedience clubs etc, care about dogs and about their breed. Also you can contact these organizations and see if they are in good standing.)
How old are the puppies when they leve the mother (no puppy should be younger then 8 weeks)
How often does the breeder breed the mother? (Dogs should never be bred every heat cycle. It is not healthy for the mother or the puppies. This means dogs should wait a year before being bred again.)
Does the breeder have a contract that requests the dog back if you cannot keep it? (Good breeders love their puppies and only want the best for them. They will want the puppy back to place in another wonderful home if you cannot keep it.)

This is a basic guide. When all else fails, go with your gut.
Remember - puppies sold in pet stores ALWAYS come from backyard breeders and puppy mills.

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Floating into my inbox the last few days has been quite a few discussions about diet. Diet is one of those things I am way too passionate about. I feel that nutrition is part of the key that unlocks a happy healthy balanced dog. Sure a dog can survive on any of the foods find in the multitude of bags with the friendly flashy pictures on them. But why should dog just survive? A dog should thrive!

Long before the pet food recalls for last year, dog food has been a ticking time bomb. In fact I take that back. The pet food industry have has many incidents like the Menu Foods tragedy, but sadly few make headlines and in the meantime, pets suffer. Many food manufacturers used questionable practices when it comes to obtaining ingredients. Some going as far as using meat from rendering plants that included euthanized pets. Dogs have died or suffered eating bad corn, bad wheat, bad meat and other bad ingredients. Sadly the pet food industry had crawled back under its rock and the public is still trusting in the flashy colorful bags and commercials and no idea of the truth behind the hype.

The three evils: Corn, Wheat, Soy,
I ask anyone pondering dog food “have you ever seen a dog eating out or a corn, wheat, or soybean field?”. All say no. Sure a dog will eat bread, corn, or almost anything you are eating, but that does not mean they would be, given a choice. Canines gain almost no nutritional value from any of these ingredients. Why are they in the dog food then? FILLER! Cheap Filler. Cheap Carbohydrates your dog will never need. All it does is make them fat, dope them up and give them infections and allergies.
Quality dog foods contain grains that are actually digestible, such as brown rice. These actually can be digested in some form or another.
Also Corn, Wheat, and Soy account for the majority of canine allergies, skin conditions and can be tied to ear infections, digestion problems, and behavioral problems.

Atkins Pets?
For those who don’t want to go with grain at all, you are in luck. Grain free food brands have been available for a while now. They are Low Carb, High Protein diets. They come in all protein types and are bound together in kibble form using potatoes. Most quailty brands of dog food make a grain free choice today. The only major variations are in fillers, protein levels, and protein source. Most dogs I have worked with who more to a grain free diet, achieve a healthy weight and have a much easier time establishing a calm balanced temperament. Why? Because they no long have nervous energy. They not longer are hyped up on empty carbs. How much better do you feel after you have had a healthy meal vs a heavy junk food meal?

Choices, choices…
Then there is the option of Raw. While raw deserves its own entry, it should get a mention. Raw is just what it sounds like - raw food. Some argue this is more biologically appropriate. Some are concerned about ecoli and salmonella. Some just can’t afford it or it is too much work. Some it has worked wonders. I will leave it as a option and fill in the rest at a later date.
Also their are brands of supplements and dried veggies that can be added to meat. There are even books to teach you how you properly cook for your dog. There is healthy balanced option for everyone.

My take:
Now why the title to this entry? Well because my dogs eat fish, of course! My shibas, my foster shibas, and any other dogs staying here, eats fish. I t is my personal theory that dogs do best on the protein their breed was developed on. Shepherds - lamb, retrieves - fowl, shibas - fish! Shibas are from Japan, where the bulk of the human diet is fish based. The same was fed to shibas. All these dogs thrive on fish. They are also fed grain free. The grain just seems to clog up their systems and make them feel blah. The only grain comes form biscuit treats and those only come at bedtime. Then their is the food based enrichment; marrow bones, chicken necks, chicken feet, whole fish, and a periodic sampling of raw. Just something different to make them think and to spice up their life.

Now every dog is different. Yours might thrive on a little grain. Maybe raw, or home cooked. It does not matter as long as your dog is happy, healthy and thriving. But if your dog is not at it’s best, please consider feeding them something a little better. You might feel it in the wallet now. But I promise you won’t feel it at the vets office or the dog school classes. It will make things all the more cheaper later… and more special.

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I bring one shiba everyday to work with me at my part time pet store job. Most of them enjoy the visit, the free treats and the attention they get from customers. I usually rotate who gets to go as well as base it on if it is going to be a busy day of the week or not. Many customers ask what they are, and I explain the breed, the rescue and the need for homes and foster homes. Then usually comes the topic of why they are given up. I go over the breed traits, purchases from pet shops, and lack of proper training. Sometimes the conversation turns to the hard cases. The dogs who have tough behavior problems, or have bitten someone.
I explain that these are the dogs who were ignored, neglected, and many times never trained or given proper guidance. These are the dogs who never get enough exercise, never had the joy of bonding with an owner through training, or never trusted society to do anything but lock them in a cage. These are the dogs that through desperation and survival, are the dogs they are when they come into my home. Some don’t know what a toy is, some wince and duck when their name is called and some just want to hide in their crate and never come out. This is where the work begins.

Stage one: Acclamation
The first week is a chance for these dogs to reset themselves. To leave everything behind them and to start a new. They are left in crates, alone, in calm quiet rooms, where they can rest and recollect themselves. They only have contact with the outside world during mealtime and potty breaks. It is other this period that I periodically pop in and sit by the crate and just calmly observe or sometimes talk to them. They learn my voice, my scent and my presence in a neutral, calm and safe situation.
Stage two: A Dogs Life
This is where the real work begins. This is where all the training, routine and trust is built. They are slowly introduced to the other dogs in the house and they are given a crate to stay in near the other dogs. The routine begins next. They are fed last among all the dogs in the house. They are taken out potty last. They are trained and played with last. This is not done to be cruel. This is actually done to remove all hierarchy from the dog’s concern. Because they are last, then only thing they have to worry about is themselves. This also relieves tension in the house among all the other dogs. They are given private playtime each day to build confidence and trust. This is also when resource guarding behaviors are managed. Basic obedience takes place throughout the day when opportunities arise.

Stage three: Time
After the groundwork is set, all that is left is time. Every dog is different and so is the time it takes to turn them around and show them the good side of society. Some dogs come around quickly. Others take months. I am sure that there are cases that can take years. But in the end it is all worth it. To see a healthy, balanced, and happy animal who you once knew as a broke, scared and haunted. To see that and know they will now be ok, makes it all worth it.

Today, and Tomorrow.
I hope to continue for a very long time to rehabilitate dogs and help them see the good their is in humans, but my other hope is to educate myself further and get my masters in Animal Behavior. I want to help more dogs and more owners throughout this region. Dogs should not be put to sleep for being driven to bite. Dogs should not be put down for being forced to fight. Dogs should be given the chance to heal and be dogs. Humans domesticated dogs and brought them into society and it is our responsibility to take care of them and protect them, and to never give up on them.

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Dog Camp was this past weekend. It was an amazing blast and I will write more about that later. But I wanted to address a topic that camp brought up while I was there. One of the instructors, brought up how she fosters the tough dogs. The reactive, fearful, and aggressive dogs. This is where Dawn and I have a lot in common.
I foster the hard case dogs for NYC Shiba Rescue. The ones that have bit, the ones with food aggression, the reactive ones. I like working with these dogs because I feel like they need a fair chance. They need someone who can get down deep and see if the problems can be figured out. I like being the tough dogs second chance.
What came up in conversation was how our own dogs are so different from the fosters. Not in issues but more in behavior. For the most part, my fosters are better behaved then my own dogs. When looking back at this and talking about it I realized why. Because I run I tight ship at home, especially for my fosters. I also don’t let my fosters get away with bad behavior from the start.
To rehabilitate them better, I only ask one thing of them, to be happy, stable dogs. I take all the guess work out of their lives. They have a schedule to depend on. They know when feeding will be, when training will be, and know that they do not have to worry about anything. They simply get to be the dogs they never got to be before. Without unnecessary stresses, they become more confident, stable and calm. They start to listen and look to me for instructions within days and issues melt away. Once they are settled in I can focus on the stimuli that sets off their issues (if I can find any) and desensitize it. Since they are not effected by other stresses their issues fade quickly and they become wonderful companions.
Now off to give Ginger a big hug. She has come so far and I am so proud of her. She will make someone extremely happy someday.

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Dogwise was at the Edison shows a month ago and at Harrisburg a few weeks ago. I picked up a few books at each and I wanted to review them.

Control Unleashed: Creating a Focused and Confident Dog by Leslie McDevitt
Good book. This book has me very excited. I do love how hard the author pushes about advocating for your dog and working hard to do what is best for them. The principles of the book seem very sound. I have yet to try the lessons on my dogs but I plan on it. I also think this book is going to make quite the impact on all my fosters.

Positive Training for Show Dogs: Building a Relationship for Success by Vicki Ronchette
Great book. Excellent techniques and good direction. Tons of shaping to get what you need for the ring. Has helped Mashi in just the few weeks I have been trying it.

101 Dog Tricks: Step-By-Step Activites to Engage, Challenge, and Bond With Your Dog by Kyra Sundance
Nice book. Lots of great tricks. I don’t like every technique she uses but the book has helped me develop my own ways to teach my dog some of the tricks. A great source of material for new things to try with our dog.

Barking: The Sound of a Language by Turid Rugaas
Intersting topic. Very different approach at looking at barking. I have yet to try recording my dogs barking events on the provided chart but I am looking forward to it. Turid Rugaas is a master in her field and anything written by her is a pleasure to read.

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